Dreams of summer. They’re inevitable this time of year, when memories of sun and warmth are fuzzy at best, and it’s hard to believe that you’ll ever be able to step outside without a coat again. Moorish paella, warm with spice and color, is a ticket out of this greyness. It tastes of warm nights in faraway places. Tartine’s genius lemon cream is equally transporting, soft, breezy and positively luscious.